Who here actually owns a motorcycle?

Geonerd said:

Just to BUMP the thread...



My project 750 Turbo is coming along.



The bike is still in pieces

But many of the pieces are looking downright respectable!

Finished the swing arm and shock linkage - polishing and painting, and replacing a bunch of 25 year old bushings and bearings along the way. Front forks getting there. Body work mostly done. At the moment I've got the head off and am cleaning up the ports, etc.



Still need to pull the engine, clean and paint the cylinder block, check the crank and transmission guts.



Another month or two and I should have something ridable! The goal is to ride to Laguna for the GP.

My bike won't be quite stock (as pictured) . I've got a single stainless pipe, and will have a black VW intercooler wedged in where the oil cooler is. Other than that, it will look much like this:



11786:kawasaki-gpz750-turbo-4.jpg]

Riding a bike like this cool, even I might get laid!

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chopperman said:

If you have the head off why not bung in a set of forged pistons? it will be stronger if you turn up the boost. Get the crank shot peened and a 5 undercut on the gear dogs. Boooooost brother

Click to expand...

Stage 1

Race mode, 100-115hp



The stock bike is restricted to around 95hp (at the wheel) by Kawasaki. We know this because there is a document from Kawasaki showing how to de-restrict it. Kawasaki call this de-restriction race mode. Click here for how to enable race mode.



Stage 1 parts list



Essential

K&N air filter #R-1080, Silencer removal/replacement/modification for reduced back pressure.



Desirable

Resistors as per the race mode document, boost gauge.



Stage 2

Race mode with boost control, 100-135hp



The next step is to start turning the boost up. You need to be careful at this point as it is possible you will encounter detonation if you go too far. Detonation is an uncontrolled burn in the cylinders and MUST be avoided at all costs, or you will have a molten lump of scrap for an engine. You can hear detonation - roll the bike on in 2nd or 3rd gear, wide open throttle, it sounds like a rattle "the death rattle". Also check the plugs to see if they have come loose and for specks of metal on the electrodes - both are signs of detonation. If you suspect detonation is occurring, turn the boost down. Stock boost is 7-10psi, 12psi gives a noticeable increase in power with 15psi being the limit we would recommend on pump fuel. 15psi should get you to around 135hp, approx 40% more power than stock. This is the limit of the stock turbocharger. A dyno run is recommended to check the fuelling throughout the rpm range. Make adjustments to the TPS/resistors as per the race mode document.



Stage 2 parts list



Essential

Boost controller, boost gauge.



Desirable

Dyno run to check fuelling. Dump valve. Oil pan mod.



Stage 3

Upgrade turbocharger, engine and fuel system, 150-200hp



This is where it gets serious! While not essential, forged pistons are highly desirable, the most popular and proven kit by a long way being the Wiseco 810cc. There are two schools of thought regarding fuel control. The Old School method favoured by HPU is to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator combined with TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) adjustments to control fuelling throughout the boost range. The New School method pioneered by 750turbo.com is to use a Powercommander 3 to map the fuelling at stock fuel pressure like a modern bike. Both methods need setting up on a dyno for performance and reliability.



Stage 3 parts list



Essential

Upgrade turbocharger (Garrett GT20, T25, T28, HPU Stage2), Upgrade fuel injectors (RC310cc, HPU 880). Upgrade fuel pump (Walbro GSL393 or 392 for HPU method). Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (SARD) OR Dynojet Powercommander 3. Heavy duty clutch springs. Dyno runs for fuel setup. Race fuel for high boost operation.



Desirable

Wiseco 810cc piston kit P809B, Copper head gasket (o-ringed), Wideband air/fuel sensor kit. Dyno runs to map fuelling. Intercooler. Lockup clutch. 530 chain conversion. GPz1100 throttle bodies. Dyna grey ignition coils. Ported spider pipe or race headers.



Stage 4

Further upgrades to turbocharger, engine and fuel system, 200-250hp



A lockup clutch is essential at this point as the stock clutch will slip, even with heavy springs. This combination is capable of over 190mph and low 9 second quarter miles (8 seconds with suitable chassis mods).



Stage 4 parts list



Essential

Wiseco 810cc piston kit P809B or HPU 880cc kit, intercooler, Upgrade fuel injectors (RC370cc or 410cc). Lockup clutch. Upgrade turbo (GT22, GT25, GT28, HPU Stage 5). GPz1100 throttle bodies. Dyna coils. Ported spider pipe or race headers.



Desirable

Upgrade wheels, forks, swingarm, brakes and tyres highly recommended! 1mm oversize exhaust valves, increased lift (but not duration) camshafts. External wastegate. Datalogger.

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